Tree of Life: Salphi

 

Tree of Life: Salphi

Upon reaching our destination, a half-hour drive from Narayanpur, we saw a forlorn, modest mud hut with a thatched roof, and no other houses.

Where is the village, I asked?

‘This is the ghotul where the dancers would perform this evening. The village is at a little distance. Ghotul is located away from the village to grant privacy to the members,’ said the primary school teacher, a local Gond and our guide and translator.

I was curious and excited since this was my first visit to a ghotul, a highly organized but much-misunderstood societal institution of the Muria Gonds of Bastar. It is an exclusive club-cum-dormitory for the unmarried young men and women of the village to train them for future 'adult' societal roles, and for their dance and song, dating and bonding, leading to selection of partners for life. The boys are called chelik, and the girls motiari.

They believe that Lingo Pen, an ancestor, established the first ghotul, and they sing several songs in his honour. The ghotul is sacred and considered a Lingo Pen shrine. 

Verrier Elwin's 1947 book The Muria and Their Ghotul provides exhaustive details about this institution, and he mentions that he had visited 347 ghotuls during 1935-1942 to gather information for his book.

‘Is it okay if we take a look inside the hut?’ asked someone from our group.

‘The ghotul is accessible only to members; no other villagers, elders or children may enter this hut. But you are guests, so you may take a quick look; but no photograph, please, and be quiet and respectful. They have a dev inside who is worshipped before the evening’s revelry.’

The mud hut was partitioned into two equal halves, one for men and the other for women, with no door separating the two units, only a mud wall with an opening. Stacked along the wall of the dormitory were their musical instruments - drums, cymbals, flutes - and  anklets and other accessories for the dance; and in a corner was an earthen pitcher and a few leaf-cups. The young people were getting ready for the evening’s performance.

After our ‘inspection’, we were seated below a mango tree on rope cots placed in a semi-circle facing the hut. Two young men brought for each guest the welcome drink - a whitish, foamy liquid with a strong, pungent smell - in a large leaf-cup filled to the brim, which we held carefully on both palms outstretched.

What is this, I asked our guide?

Salphi, he said. They drink salphi before they dance and sing, and they offer it to guests.

Is it alcoholic?

Yes, it is. Outsiders call it Bastar beer.

I took a little sip. Sour, far from pleasant, and not my idea of a welcome drink. It was already dark. There were only two lanterns with rather feeble light– one inside the hut and another near the clearing where they would dance. I tried to discretely put the leaf cup under the cot, but our guide noticed it.

‘Sir, they would feel very offended if you spurn their hospitality. Please drink it,’ he whispered. It was a command, not a request!

I closed my nostrils, gulped it at one go, abhorred it; but after a few minutes it felt rather good, and when a second cup was offered, I drank it happily, to hell with the foul smell and sour taste. The first drink was feeling rather lonely and rooting for a mate, I guess!

That was my first and only taste of  salphi, and I think the drink made the evening of dance and song by the young men and women of Bastar  even more memorable.

~~~

Thereafter, during my extensive travel in Bastar for a year, I noticed the ubiquitous salphi tree, and learned what a prized possession it was for a tribal household. Parents of a nubile girl were disinclined to approve of the groom if his family did not own at least one salphi tree, I was told. Sometimes, a salphi tree was also given as a dowry.

Salphi* is the fishtail palm (Caryota urens,L) tree which is tapped for palm wine. Early in the morning, the foamy white liquid has a bland taste, less sweet than neera, but as the sun ascends the drink is fermented by heat and bacteria, and by the evening it is a potent alcoholic drink much favoured by the tribals. No human processing is needed, the sun and the bacteria brew it for free!


(Photo credit: By Pakshya - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=38178223)

In the famous weekly haats of Bastar, a venue not merely for buying and selling, but also for revelry and entertainment, salphi (and also mahua and landa) is sold by the glass. A friend checked from a source at Jagdalpur - a glass of about 200 ml salphi currently sells for five rupees. No liquor or cola vendor can match that price!

I had obtained a salphi** sapling from the forest department's nursery, and planted it in the garden of my official residence at Kanker. That was in 1985. I wonder how the tree is doing and whether any of my successors thought of tapping it for its elixir.

***

* Verrier Elwin's book has a whole chapter on 'The Sago Palm'. The tree is called gorga marra in Gondi and salpi rukh in Halbi. Murias have a song on the tree: Waliya wato gorga ale maamaale - O uncle, the sago-palms are everywhere.

Before the first tapping, the tree is offered a sacrifice - usually a chicken or a pig.

** This tree is called Salapa in Odisha, Jillugu in AP & Telengana, and Bagini in Karnataka.

***

Comments & Inputs from Readers

S.P. Thakkar, Hyderabad

In A.P. and Telengana, the tree is called jilluga and the drink jilluga kallu. Long ago, we distributed these saplings to the tribals in the Araku valley.

Ramesh Babu Lingamneni, Hyderabad

Kallu is very popular in tribal areas in Andhra and Telangana. Interesting how knowledge travels through tribal areas.
S.C. Khuntia, 

S.C. Khuntia, Bangalore

Very interesting. This palm tree is called Bagini in the coastal areas of Karnataka and a kind of toddy is made from it that is more potent than the one from date palm. It was a called fishtail palm in English. I  witnessed a tribal dance in Paderu area of Vishakhapatna district, but thankfully they did not offer me the welcome drink.

Madan Upadhyay, Bhopal

बस्तर के जीवन में ghotul परंपरा का बहुत प्राचीन इतिहास रहा है। बस्तर से बाहर रहने वाले लोग इस संस्कृत और ऐतिहासिक परंपरा को अधकचरा ही समझ पाए हैं और उसके पीछे की जो गहरी सोच है उससे नावाकिफ रहे हैं ।
बदलते समय मे यह परंपरा अपना मूल स्वरूप होती जा रही है
मनोरंजन और मदिरापान का पौराणिक समय से अपना विशिष्ट स्थान रहा है ।शायद इसके पीछे यह सोच रही हो की मनोरंजन में हर्षोल्लास के समय जितना व्यक्ति अपनी दिनभर की समस्याओं से दूर रहे उतना बेहतर होगा ।आपके लेख में भी यही बात उभर कर सामने आती है की पहला घूंट करवा ही सही उसके अनुभूति के परिणामों के बाद दूसरे घूट में वह कड़वाहट शेष नहीं रहे। 
जनजाति क्षेत्र में देसी मदिरा बनाने की प्राचीन परंपरा है और मध्य प्रदेश तथा देश के अनेकों भागों में अभी भी स्थानीय ग्राम वासियों को देसी  की छूट प्राप्त है ।अब तो देसी मदिरा आधारित विशिष्ट ब्रांड भी कई राज्यों ने तैयार कर लिए हैं। 
इन मदिराओं में तीखापन होने के कारण अपनी एक विशिष्ट पहचान है और इस विशेषता  की मार्केट भी है।

Dr. Prafulla Kumar Tripathy, Cuttack

Response in Sambalpuri
ପାରଳାଖେମୁଂଡି-ବାସୀ (୨୯୬୯-୧୯୭୨) ହେଇଥିଲା ବେଲେଁ ଆଖର୍‌ ପାଖର୍‌ ଆଦିବାସୀ ଗାଆଁକେ ଯାଇ ସଳପ ରସ କେତେ ଥର ପିଇଛେଁ। କେଭେଁ ଟଂକା ଦେବାକେ ନାଇଁପଡ଼ି। ଯାଚ୍‌ଲେଁ ଭିଲ୍‌ ସେମାନେ ନାଇଁନିଅନ୍‌।
କାଇ ଚଟେନ୍‌ ନୁହେ ଚାଖେଁ ତାଏଲ୍‌।
Translation
During my stay at Paralakhemundi (1969-1972), I sampled salapa juice several times. Our hosts refused to accept any payment from us despite our request. I am yet to taste Kai chtney.

4 comments:

  1. An experience nicely described .A tribal drink interestingly introduced .

    ReplyDelete
  2. Nice experience on tribal...way of life

    ReplyDelete
  3. A great deal of knowledge, particularly on the ways of life in the distance forests along with the drink that now fascinating the readers. But is it an elixir!!! Could not be doubted because the writer has tasted it, two glassfuls of it.

    ReplyDelete
  4. I had been to Raighar in Nawrangpur District (erstwhile Koraput) in 1990 for a research on Gondi language. Had stayed there amongst the Gonds for about 3 weeks . But none offered me Salap. Anyway I had heard about it from the Block Chairman Gujuru Naik. My compilation of Gondi vocabulary has been published by Academy of Tribal Dialects and Culture.

    ReplyDelete

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