Miracle at Baku

The group of forty-eight Indian holidayers, all senior citizens but for two, had enjoyed the Azerbaijan leg of their trip, and had arrived at Baku departure terminal well-ahead of time for the 2.40 PM flight to Tbilisi, capital of Georgia.

Tbilisi is a beautiful city, and Georgia is more picturesque than Azerbaijan, Tour Manger (TM) had mentioned.

After obtaining their Boarding passes, the passengers queued up before the Immigration Control counters where the officials checked the visa, and stamped the passport.

About 30 minutes before boarding, it was noted that Dear Friend-Colleague-Coordinator-Magnate-MC-Group Leader (GL for short) and his spouse, and a few others were not yet at the Boarding Gate.

What’s the problem, a friend asked DT who had cleared immigration, but looked tense and upset. 

‘Azerbaijan Airlines has not issued the Boarding Pass for my spouse,’ he said.

Why?

No valid visa to enter Georgia, they claim.

Is she the only one denied Boarding pass?

Mrs PB, too. GL and TM  are trying to persuade the authorities. They are hopeful.

About 15 minutes before Boarding Gate closure, DT decided to skip the flight to join his stranded wife.

‘You’ve already Departed from Azerbaijan. Our system has recorded that, and your passport is stamped. We can’t permit you to enter our country again.’

‘No, I insist. I cannot leave behind my spouse and proceed on holiday.’

‘Please don’t create a scene. We’ll be forced to call in the police to arrest you and deport you to India.’

‘You need not summon the police, I will. To register a complaint that a senior citizen couple is being harassed by Azerbaijan officials on frivolous grounds.  You may like to note that we are a group of retired senior civil servants, and each of us is active on social media. How would Azerbaijan Tourism like if we were to tell our friends and family that 23 senior citizens and their spouses are stranded and harassed at Baku?’

‘You may cancel your Boarding Pass, retrieve your checked in luggage, and return to the check-in area. Please sign a Declaration that you’re doing this of your own accord.’ He signed the paper, and stepped out to join his wife.

Even as this drama was unfolding, GL and TM were moving heaven and earth to get the two stranded ladies on the flight. Before the group’s departure from India, the Georgian Embassy had confirmed by an email that UAE Multiple Entry visa, which both the ladies had obtained, is valid to enter Georgia. GL had personally met the Additional Secretary, MEA, handling Azerbaijan and  Georgia. Tour Company had taken several holidayers earlier to Georgia on UAE Multiple Entry visa.

‘Why are you refusing Boarding Pass to the two ladies? They have tickets for this flight, valid Azerbaijan visa, and are leaving the country after finishing the trip; if Georgia has a problem with their visa, we’ll take that up with Georgian Immigration after arrival at Tbilisi.’

‘No, we can’t permit them to board the flight.’

‘But why?’

‘UAE Multiple Entry visa should have been stamped on their passport. Paper-copy is not acceptable.’

‘Do you suspect that these two ladies might be illegal immigrants or seekers of political asylum to Georgia? They are respectable senior citizens of India, and are scheduled to return home after this brief holiday. Here are their return tickets.’

‘Sorry, we are bound by our rules.’

GL and TM worked furiously on the available options. It involved additional cost, but it was feasible to fly the two couples from Baku to Delhi and put them on the next flight from Delhi to Tbilisi, which would mean half-a-day’s delayed arrival at Tbilisi; no big deal.

The final option was to abort the second leg of their trip, and send them home. That would entail much financial loss for them, and also ruin the mood for the entire group!

The clock was ticking. Boarding began, and forty of the group boarded the flight; but still no sign for GL and his spouse, RK and spouse, the two couples, and TM.

It was time for the flight gate to be closed when GL and spouse, and RK and spouse boarded. They were greeted with a spontaneous wave of muted cheer and gentle clapping by the group, startling the remaining passengers and the cabin crew not privy to the preceding drama and tension. GL showed ‘crossed fingers;’ he was still rather tense. After two minutes, the two stranded couples, and TM entered the aircraft. The joyous applause was now heard by one and all.

GL sat down, had  a drink of water, and closed his eyes for a few seconds. When he opened his eyes again, his trademark smile radiated his handsome face.

‘In next life, if you’re born as a girl, I’ll marry you!’ whispered a friend and admirer to GL.

‘Are you sure you’d be born as a man, or even human?’ GL winked mischievously. He had got his sense of humour back and in full measure. Thank Heavens!

On the group’s request, GL narrated the entire episode after dinner.

‘It was nothing short of a miracle. When all doors seemed closed, I threw up my hands in despair, and prayed, “Baanke Bihari, ab tumhara hi sahara.”

Even before I had finished my prayer, a tall man, possibly a senior Azerbaijan Airlines official from the back office strode up to me and asked, ‘Sir, what’s the problem? Why are you and your friends not boarding the flight? We won’t hold it for you, you know that.’

‘We have no problem. All ready to board, but we won’t leave behind our friends here.’

‘How about this? All of you with Boarding passes proceed for boarding, I’ll sort out the matter about the two ladies.’

‘A spouse has cancelled his Boarding Pass, and taken out his luggage.’

‘Hello, there! Please issue a new Boarding pass to this gentleman,’ he hollered to the counter at a distance, ‘check in his luggage, and ensure that it is put on the flight.’

Who was this senior official, who sent him to help us? Baanke Bihari jaane.’

GL’s concluding remarks:

Maybe, Baanke Bihari taught me a quick lesson in humility. I was kind of overconfident that with the meticulous planning and groundwork, I can easily handle such minor problems. Hubris, or call it conceit, if you will.

Baanke Bihari was chuckling to himself. He created a situation, we call it leela; and made us run around like headless chicken. Go and fix that small matter, won’t you, He said.

When I surrendered and prayed, He resolved it in a twinkle. Baanke Bihari ki Jai Ho!’

The group was humbled to learn that GL was not the only one who had prayed. His 92-year-old Babuji at Ranchi read Hanuman Chalisa daily praying for the group’s safe return, as he had done for the earlier trips to Mussoorie, Pachmarhi, and Coorg. GL’s spouse, too, had prayed, ‘Bajrang Bali, aaj inka laaj rakhna.’ Mrs MP had sat in a quiet corner in the Boarding Gate to pray to Baba and count her prayers on rosary beads.

The flight landed in Tbilisi, and Georgian Immigration promptly stamped all passports. No questions asked!

Prayers can make miracles happen.

Ganesha sculpture at Ateshgah Fire Temple, Baku, Azerbaijan.

Ganesha at Fire Temple, Baku with AUM chant playing over the sound system. 

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